7 cities, one epic motorbike loop through southern Italy! Ahh, yes. I’ve been dreaming of discovering southern Italy for years. Up to this point, I’d never been south of Rome. What I didn’t imagine was finally experiencing it in the middle of winter, with temperatures dropping to zero degrees Celsius, but we’ll get to that.
During the holiday season, I covet the week between Christmas and New Year’s. It’s my slowest work week of the year (as it is for many Americans), and it feels like the one time people collectively give themselves permission to check out.
This year was no different. I was traveling with a friend and spending time on the Greek island of Corfu. As luck would have it, the flu made the rounds, and he was sick through Christmas Day. When he finally started feeling better, he said, ‘Let’s go to Italy.’ Of course, I was game. Eating pizza in Napoli has been on my list forever.
We loaded his motorbike onto the ferry from Corfu to Igoumenitsa, then caught the overnight ferry to Bari, Italy — leaving mainland Greece at 1 a.m. and touching down in Italy around 11 a.m. the same morning. I love country hopping by boat; it feels a bit old-world in the best way. And there’s nothing like having your transportation the second you arrive.
With that, let’s get into our motorbike loop through southern Italy.
The Loop Through Southern Italy
Bari
Bari is the capital of Puglia, making it a practical place to start a trip like this. If you need gear, layers, or last-minute provisions, you can find them here without a second thought. It’s also a pleasant, walkable coastal city. Food-wise, this is orecchiette country, often served with cime di rapa — bitter greens that hit perfectly after a long day. Pair that with a glass of local Negroamaro, a bold red typical to the region, and suddenly you’re feeling like a local.
Monopoli
Forty-five minutes south down the coast, you’ll find the seaside town of Monopoli. When I first heard the name, I had to go. I grew up playing the board game, and suddenly I was picturing the Monopoly man as a cheeky Italian. I digress. Monopoli is compact, with an easy-to-navigate old town that invites you to slow down and wander. Fishing boats bob in the harbor, nets drying nearby, giving the place a ‘life is being lived’ feel.
Heading out of this region, we decided to put the maps on ‘avoid highways’. This was absolutely the move for the rest of the trip. Picture old Italian countryside roads, rolling hills, vineyards on one side, olive tree orchards on the other, and every so often a castle and an old abandoned medieval town. Yes, yes. Get off those highways and into the country, especially if you are on a motorbike!
Alberobello
Alberobello, swoon. No motorbike loop through southern Italy is complete without stopping here. About an hour inland from Bari, Alberobello is famous for its trulli homes — those whitewashed, cone-shaped stone houses that feel straight out of a fairy tale. Historically, they were built without mortar so they could be dismantled quickly to avoid taxes, which somehow makes them even more charming. A nod to those clever Italians. Visiting in winter was a highlight of the trip. The trulli were decorated for Christmas, lights strung between rooftops, wreaths on stone walls, Santa hats perched atop the cones. It was as adorable as it gets, and worth braving the cold to soak up the holiday spirit.
Yummy Rec ~ We stumbled into Trattoria Terra Madre, right next to one of the main churches. The hosts were so kind to sneak us in for lunch. Eating inside one of the trulli dome rooms was special. With a proudly vegetable-forward menu and a lovely garden tucked out back, it’s well worth visiting. A reservation is suggested!
Matera
About an hour and fifteen minutes from Alberobello, Matera completely stole my heart. Known as the ‘stone city,’ this is a place I’d recommend staying at least a couple of nights. The old town is majestic and unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been. To me, it felt like Morocco meets Italy. Maybe it was the warm stone, the way the buildings stack like boxes, or the amber light that hits just right at sunset. I’m not totally sure, but the feeling is undeniable. Matera’s historic center, the Sassi, consists of ancient cave dwellings carved directly into the rock, among the oldest continuously inhabited homes in the world. Once considered a symbol of poverty, the city has since been restored and reimagined. Wander the entire old town, watch the light change throughout the day, and take your time.
Yummy rec ~ A hungry stroll and a kind recommendation from a local led us to Le Botteghe. We had homemade pasta and a fantastic local wine our server suggested, we were in heaven. This stretch of the trip winds through vineyards, so leaning into regional wines is part of the experience.
Salerno
The ride to Salerno was one of the longest stretches of the loop, and coldest. Seeing the temperature gauge on the bike read zero degrees Celsius was a vision. If you hit this route in the winter, don’t skimp on your layers and face mask. You will need a break along the way, and Calitri is perfect for a warm coffee. A small hill town crowned by a castle carved directly into the mountain. It’s striking and exactly the kind of place that makes you glad you avoided the highway.
Salerno itself made sense as a stop, not because it stole the show, but because pushing on to Napoli would have been too much for one day. And honestly, it delivered where it mattered. This was our first real taste of Naples-style pizza, and we were immediately hooked. Soft, blistered crusts, simple toppings, Italian pizza dreams realized. It was here that pizza culture really started to take shape on the trip, hinting at what awaited us just up the coast.
Yummy recs ~ Friggitoria Sabatino is a pizza-by-the-slice joint with a cult following. They basically sell out the second they open their doors. Around the corner, you will find Pizzaportafoglio & Fessarie. With a robust menu and plenty of dough to serve the masses, it is a homerun as well!
Amalfi Coast, Pompeii & Herculaneum
If you follow this route, you will drive through the infamous Amalfi Coast, which lies between Salerno and Napoli. This is, without question, some of the best coastal riding in the world. Jagged cliffs plunge into the deep blue as the road clings impossibly to the mountainside. Lemon groves teeter on the slopes, brilliant hotels scatter the hills, and every curve delivers another ‘how is this real?’ moment. It’s technical, thrilling, and wildly beautiful. A stretch of road no motorbike rider should ever skip.
Continuing north, the route passes Pompeii and nearby Herculaneum, ancient cities frozen in time after the eruption of 79 AD, beneath Mount Vesuvius. Both make for powerful, easy stops before rolling into Napoli.
Napoli
Napoli has a gothic edge — beautiful, gritty, and buzzing with friction. It’s a city that doesn’t try to charm, and it’s not hoping to win you over. One block you’re dodging scooters and laundry lines, the next you’re staring at ancient statues and incredible street art. It’s walkable, chaotic, and yes, parts of it are undeniably touristy — but that’s to be expected. I did zero research on what Napoli would be like. I pictured seaside pizzerias with cute sidewalk signs luring you in. It wasn’t that at all. Napoli is a big (one of Italy’s largest) sprawling city that just happens to be the birthplace of pizza as we know it.
Long before Milan and Turin took the reins, Naples was once one of Europe’s great capitals, a center of power and culture before influence shifted north. You can feel that former grandeur lingering beneath the dark streets.
We visited over New Year’s, which revealed a more intimate side of the city. Restaurants and bars closed early on NYE because most people were home with family and friends. It was special to witness Naples (and likely much of Italy) still rooted in tradition and community.
Yummy rec ~ Our favorite pizza was devoured at Tagliere Alcolico. My criteria for top-notch pizza are: a thin crust (so delicious you don’t leave it behind), golden and crunchy, sturdy enough to pick up, chewy in all the right places, with a perfect sauce-to-topping ratio. They absolutely nailed it. I wanted to go back the next day, but our schedule didn’t allow.
Melfi
Leaving Napoli, we had one more night on the road before taking the ferry back to Greece. We chose a slightly different route to Bari and landed in Melfi, a small hill town in southern Italy with a quiet, old-world feel. Since we arrived on January 1st, once again, everything was closed. We lucked out when I rang Home Restaurant of Annamaria. Anna serves a multi-course dinner in her adorable dining room. She’s the sweetest nonna who makes you feel like family within minutes. The food was comforting and perfect after a long day on the bike. What a way to spend an evening in a new city.
Goodbye, Southern Italy
This motorbike loop through Southern Italy wasn’t my first guess for how I’d experience this region, but life has a way of surprising you. I’m glad we went for it, even in the dead of winter with absolutely chilling temperatures. Some of these cities had been on my hit list forever; others we discovered on the fly.
I’ve always love this grey area while traveling. A bit of research, a bit of following your nose, an idea of what to expect, and still going in slightly blind. That’s where the magic lives.
I hope this trip sparks a Southern Italy extravaganza for you, or at least gets your wheels turning for renewed travel ideas!
A presto,
Bekah
PS ~ For another perspective on this region, check out our Tips You Need to Know for Apilia article!