Discovering Belize! Even though this is one of the closest countries to California, candidly I was intimidated to travel to this Caribbean paradise. All the notable hot spots seemed so spread apart and I hadn’t put my head down to do the research. Finally, an adventurous travel friend that I trust told me she went to 2 neighboring islands and loved it. I thought, let’s do it!
To her suggestion we visited Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker making for the perfect 10 day trip. You can expect vibrant turquoise waters teeming with marine life, perfect for snorkeling and diving. These idyllic islands offer you a laid-back atmosphere, with sandy streets and a charming blend of local culture and international influences. Whether you seek relaxation on pristine beaches or thrilling water activities, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker welcome you to a quintessential tropical escape.
* If you love the Caribbean, be sure to read about our unbeatable 1-week itinerary in Puerto Rico here!
Ambergris Caye
After landing in the capital Belize City, we took a 90 minute ferry to Ambergris Caye, the largest island in Belize. Located off the northeastern coast, this island offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and modern amenities. San Pedro Town, the main hub of the island, features colorful Caribbean-style buildings and a lively atmosphere with plenty of restaurants, bars, and shops. On this island you can also explore the diverse ecosystems, including mangrove swamps, lush jungles, and pristine coral reefs. We stayed on the more secluded southern end of San Pedro Town, and it was the perfect location.
Remember upon departing the ferry you are now on island time and you can begin to enjoy an unhurried pace. Drinks and food will take longer, so plan ahead. A huge highlight of this island is that golf carts are the preferred mode of transportation, more on that to come!
Mahogany Bay
Where to stay? Look no further than Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club. I love a resort as much as the next person, but I need it to feel personal, quaint, and somewhat of a boutique experience. Adults-only style hotels are my first choice, but they are not always available. If it seems like there will be families, I dive into reviews making sure it won’t be overrun with kids and noise. Again, another personal preference.
Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club exceeded my expectations and is one of my favorite resort-style stays to date. This place nailed colonial chic, unpretentious glam. Don’t let the fact that it’s under the Hilton umbrella scare you, Mahogany Bay exudes one-off charm. The stand-alone cottages are private and contemporary with vaulted ceilings, speedy wifi (equipped for remote workers), high end bedding, golf cart parking, and an outdoor sitting area.
As you may notice when you get into San Pedro Town, the washed up seaweed can be very smelly and there aren’t really hangout beaches. Seaweed issues in Belize, including the influx of sargassum seaweed (brown algae), stem from factors like climate change, nutrient runoff, deforestation, ocean currents, and human activities, necessitating a comprehensive approach to mitigation and management. The smell is unpleasant, resembling that of rotten eggs. This is due to the release of hydrogen sulfide gas during decomposition. Don’t get too deterred by this, as the best part of Belize is being out on the water.
Keep reading for Mahogany Bay’s solution to finding the perfect (not smelly) beach!
Private Beach
This hotel offers regular boat trips from their dock to their private beach club 15 minutes away. The best part of this pristine beach is that it’s only available to hotel guests and is located on the more sheltered west side. This paired with the hearty mangroves protecting the cove leads to no fragrant seaweed and absolute relaxation. Just bring your hat and sunglasses. Here you can chill out in stilted cabanas, hammocks, enjoy canoes, paddle boarding, or simply soak up the sun while sipping on tropical cocktails. Delicious light bites and hearty lunch plates are available from their well equipped kitchen.
Try and get on the last boat of the day to enjoy sundown in this charming paradise. This private beach experience is one of my most unforgettable hotel amenities to date. I guarantee you will have a smile on your face during the boat ride back to the hotel.
Golf Carts
As much as I could have just spent all my days discovering Belize at Mahogany Bay, many adventures awaited via golf carts. As the roads on this island are golf cart friendly, this is the best way to explore. You will see tourists and locals alike going about their days on the zippy carts ready for the paved or bumpy dirt roads. There are many places to rent from and after your final drop off they will arrange your transportation to the ferry. It couldn’t be easier or more fun!
Here are some of the highlights from our golf cart adventures:
To Do
• Belize Pro Dive Center – this place was top-notch for scuba diving. They picked us up on time, the groups were small and they took us to amazing dive spots. I saw the largest and oldest sea turtle I have ever seen sleeping on the sea floor. He/She/They must have been at least 4 feet in length and 2 feet tall, looking ancient and wise. I love seeing mature sea life while diving as it’s an indication that the waters are healthy. Get ready to be up close and personal with stingrays, nurse sharks, reef sharks, eels and seahorses to name a few. The underwater visibility of 60-100 feet is an absolute dream.
• TOAST Seaside Boozery and Grill – we enjoyed relaxing here after scuba diving. As this is the closest public pier to Mahogany Bay, our dive center picked us up from the TOAST pier on their boat.
• Snorkeling – the amazing thing about Belize is that with the shallow reef, snorkeling is as good as the diving. With a decent guide, you can see an array of sea life while barely going underwater. Of course I was diving deep, talking to all the cuties underwater and practicing my free diving, 😊. Shop around at the various water activity shops to find a boat trip that fits your schedule. While we picked ‘eco-friendly’ companies that didn’t chum the waters, our boats still took us to areas where the waters were being chummed, 🫠. Not going to get into ocean politics here, but wanted to point that out.
Eats
• El Fogon Restaurant – if you ask the locals where to get legit Belizean food, they will likely point you here. Authentic dishes with great service and cozy vibes await you. Rice and beans are the national dish of Belize and come with most meals. At places like this, you can order your protein with potato salad or coleslaw and fried plantains. Pick from an array of fresh seafood, conch, coconut curries, creole dishes and stews.
• The Fry Jack House – make sure you try this traditional Belizean breakfast. The fry jack is fried, puffy dough, much like a beignet without the powdered sugar. They can be stuffed, like an empanada, or served flat with toppings, like a tostada. Order savory options with different proteins or dessert options with fruit. An unforgettable local delicacy!
• Belize Chocolate Company – as fun and breezy as the golf cart rides are, Belize was hot and humid in July. Sometimes you just need a bit of air conditioning, chocolate and a iced coffee to recalibrate. This place is the real deal for chocolate lovers, and they even host chocolate-making classes. They are passionate about creating ethical high-quality local products from cacao. Checkout their online store of killer items that can be shipped to a handful of countries including the USA.
Drinks
• Wayo’s Beach Bar – the perfect place to enjoy drinks, live music, ocean views and order your first coconut mojito! I am not one for sugary vacation drinks, but I could not stop ordering coconut mojitos everywhere in Belize. A refreshing blend of rum, lime, mint, coconut cream, ice and soda water- these were addicting.
* Pro tip: ask for an extra shot of rum on the side and spike your mojito as needed. I felt like the flavors were more balanced with a bit more rum, 😜.
• The Islands Jungle Restaurant & Bar – the perfect place for a nightcap on the way back to Mahogany Bay after a long day exploring. Enjoy the friendly service, reggae bands and entertaining people watching.
Caye Caulker
It was hard to say goodbye to the warm hospitality of Mahogany Bay and the whimsical golf cart adventures in Ambergris Caye, but we were very excited about Caye Caulker. A quick 30-minute ferry ride south and we landed in a different island paradise. The preferred mode of transport in Caye Caulker is bikes, which makes for an even more chilled out experience. The rasta, one love and backpacker vibes immediately started to flow. You can rent bikes from a local shop or your accommodation of choice may provide them. As this island is small you can easily walk everywhere you need to go as well.
Iguana Reef Inn
Since there are tons of places to stay, you could end up spending hours researching (like I did). However, Iguana Reef Inn stands out amongst the rest. They have the perfect beachfront location on the more protected west side of the island. Trust me, you do not want to get entangled staying anywhere near the banks of brown algae decomposing on the east side. The perfectly manicured beach at Iguana Reef Inn is open to all and equipped with a bar, shady lounge chairs, lunch service and swings in the water. The friendly stingrays swim around this beach as the sun is setting making for fun entertainment. Be sure to have them point out where the tiny seahorses live camouflaged into their dock.
Here are some of the highlights from our adventures around Caye Caulker:
Scuba and Snorkel
• Frenchie’s Diving Services – we enjoyed 2 more dives here. As lionfish are not indigenous to the region, they are allowed to be killed. They take away from the biodiversity of marine life as well as the health of the reef. Our instructor had a speargun and was actively killing the lionfish underwater. I didn’t know this was allowed yet, and I was in absolute shock during my dive wondering what I signed up for. The history lesson ensued when the dive was over and the lionfish were fed to the nurse sharks. Consider yourself warned. 💀
* Something to note is that we did not trek to the Blue Hole for scuba diving as the time commitment felt too long for our trip. The famous Blue Hole is a large underwater sinkhole off the coast of Belize. It is extremely popular among divers and tourists worldwide. It’s considered one of the top dive sites globally due to its unique geological features, including its depth, crystal-clear waters, and diverse marine life. You can even book helicopter tours to see the hole from above.
• Anda De Wata Tours – this place stands out in my mind for our snorkel adventure on Caye Caulker. My instructor was so informative and knew where the marine cuties were. He even knew how to summon the eels out of their homes. On a personal note, even from this mermaid, I feel like the half-day snorkel trips were the right choice. You go from place to place on simple boats with little shade. The sun is blazing and after a few hours, I was pickled from the salty water and ready for a meal (and another coconut mojito).
Biking
• Biking adventure past the split – bike over to The Lazy Lizard. From there take the ‘split to split’ tiny boat taxi with your bike onboard heading to the north end of the island. This is a tranquil haven, far from the bustling village center with limited development. We biked along secluded beaches lined with swaying palm trees and mangroves. This end offers a glimpse of authentic island life allowing you to be completely surrounded by nature. El Ben Cabañas would be the place to stay if you want a remote Caye Caulker experience.
Eats
• The Pelican Sunset Bar – this became our favorite lunch spot and a repeat destination. The lunch specials were always super fresh and the vibe was welcoming after salty ocean adventures. Happy to report this place had my favorite coconut mojito.
• Pasta per Caso – guess what? They are whipping up proper Italian food here! The daily menu with limited options is all you need. Enjoy fresh handmade pasta, some veg options and delicious wine at one of the best restaurants on the island. Dreaming of a return!
• Elba’s Little Kitchen – authentic Belizean food off the beaten path, run by the sweetest family. The location is not well lit and it feels a bit dodgy going up the stairs at night, but stay the course. As good as it gets with local fair. Enjoy veggie curries and seafood plates galore. Save the heartache wondering if you are going to have a good meal and get to Elba’s!
• Roy’s Blue Water Grill – a very lively dinner spot. The food was fresh off the grill and the crowd was buzzing. More memorable than the food was the owner offering me a hit of his joint out back by the bathrooms. I live for moments like this while traveling!
Drinks
• Amor y Cafe – god bless this place. A consistent cup of morning coffee and good breakfast options. We loved sitting on the patio and watching the hustle and bustle go by.
Caribbean Swagger of its Own
Well there you have it, discovering Belize is an ocean lover’s dream! I am so glad I carved out the time to get to this sweet little paradise. This is a very concise roundup as both the islands are quite small. If you make it to Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker you should visit all the places listed as I have done the dirty work for you. 😀
After talking to the locals there is more diversity to discover by the Mexican border and in the south, making it a repeat destination. Belize does have a Caribbean swagger of its own. Culturally it is very different than its neighbors Mexico and Guatemala, and for that, you need to visit! The island-style pace makes it the perfect place to immerse in nature and have a reset. I can see why people say Belize is ‘Mother Nature’s Best-Kept Secret’.
Meet me at the Blue Hole,
Rach
PS ~ If you have a transit day in Belize City, stay at Harbour View Boutique Hotel & Yoga Retreat. This place is safe and very well maintained. Their zen restaurant served up tasty food and the staff were lovely!
PSS ~ If you are still craving more Caribbean fun, be sure to check out our itinerary for 3 fun filled days exploring Cartagena!
