Discovering Varkala, India, wasn’t part of the plan. Not this time. My first trip to India was 6 years ago ~ a 5 city, 2 week extravaganza. Scouring the infamous northern sites, soaking in the Goan sun and marveling at all that Hampi is. I was intoxicated by India’s vastness, its chaos, its beauty. It was unforgettable but also an all-consuming, no rest for the wild kind of trip 🤘🏽. I was glad I tackled it with a friend. I had no desire to return alone for a demanding sightseeing itinerary. That was not in the cards whatsoever. If I were to go back, it would be different. I wanted to feel grounded by the ocean and explore the introspective side of India.
My Grandfather’s Hometown
Life, as it often does, gave me the nudge. A month between Indonesia and Sri Lanka ~ a blank page in my fall travel plans. In the state of Kerala, the capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum for short), my grandfather’s hometown sat quietly on the map, calling. Just outside Trivandrum, Varkala whispered lures of yoga, surf and sunsets over the Arabian Sea. I booked the ticket.
Varkala doesn’t just sit by the sea; it perches dramatically above it, protected by brave cliffs promising safety. They are wild and rugged, softened only by the pastel milky hues the sun brings about every day, especially at sunset. Below, the Arabian Sea stretches endlessly, blessing beach-going families with breaching warm waves.
Janardhana Swamy Temple & Papanasam Beach
For centuries, Varkala has been a place of healing and spirituality. It’s home to the Janardhana Swamy Temple, a 2,000 year old shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu, where pilgrims seek blessings and peace. Down the street at the base of the cliff lies the sacred Papanasam Beach, its name meaning ‘to wash away sins’. Hindus gather here in honor of departed loved ones. During these ceremonies, offerings are made, and the deceased’s ashes are immersed in the sea, symbolizing their soul’s journey toward eternal peace.
These cliffs are unique to India and are classified as a national geological monument, with their red laterite rock contrasting against the aqua sea. This ancient land is steeped in yoga, Ayurveda and holistic healing traditions – practices that have drawn travelers for decades. It’s a place where the past and present coexist, where ancient wisdom meets modern seekers.
Town of Contradictions
This town of contradictions is sacred for many, with rituals unfolding steps away from cafes serving avocado toast and soy chai lattes. Yoga schools dot every corner, vying for attention alongside Ayurvedic clinics, crystal stores and surf shops. It’s as if the town is trying to balance its old soul with its modern appeal.
I arrived curious but cautious, careful not to get swept up in the hum of it all. There was so much at my fingertips, but I wanted to move with intention. I made slow decisions about how to spend my time. I was in India for something meaningful, though I wasn’t quite sure what that was just yet.
Yoga
Yoga has been a constant thread in my life, weaving its way through the past (almost) two decades. It has grounded me when I felt unsteady, taught me stillness when my mind was restless, recalibrated my nervous system and offered a sense of calm when the world felt overwhelming. Yin Yoga has always sparked a deep curiosity among the many styles I’ve practiced. There’s something transformative about its quiet intensity – a practice that asks you to surrender, to find strength in stillness and to sit with whatever arises.
Although open, I didn’t come to Varkala planning to study yoga. I intended to practice & stay connected to something familiar while exploring new terrain. But as I walked along the cliffs one afternoon, I stumbled upon an upcoming Yin teacher training. The course dates aligned perfectly with my schedule, as if the universe had neatly placed it in my path.
A Visit to the School
Curious, I decided to visit the school. It felt like a fit when I stepped into the space and met the teachers. These weren’t instructors focused only on postures – they spoke of breath, stillness, the science and spirituality behind yoga and the transformative power of the spaces in between. The places we can explore when we let go of fixation with the body. It was as though this place had been waiting for me, and I knew this was where I was meant to deepen my practice.
Yin became my guide during the coming weeks. It taught me to sit and lean into the discomfort I often rush past. It wasn’t just yoga but a recalibration – a gentle shift toward further balance and presence. After studying, I taught my first classes over the next few days, transitioning from student to teacher. This was huge, as I never thought I’d be able to teach yoga due to my anxiety. Now, I can’t wait to keep teaching.
Cosmic Threads
But discovering Varkala, India wasn’t just about the practice. It was about the people, too. Its cosmic threads seemed to weave strangers into guides and fleeting conversations into lifelong lessons. There were chai-fueled chats that felt like therapy sessions, meals shared with new friends who felt like old ones, whisky saluds over discussions about ascension and intimate moments with healers who seemed to see right through me.
One told me, ‘you need to deepen your meditation practice’. Another reminded me, ‘don’t get lost in the circus, remember why you came’. And Rakesh, the leather salesman, ‘we are in the middle of right now’. Their words have stayed with me long after the conversations ended.
My Neighbor
I’ll never forget my neighbor, a yoga teacher who crossed my path at just the right time. We spent 3 weeks coexisting on the cliffs. When he learned I was going through some turmoil in my personal life, he simply said, ‘meet me for yoga class later’. What I thought would be a regular session turned into an intimate, one-on-one practice of Yin and breathwork. By the end, I was in tears – releasing emotions I didn’t even know I was holding.
After the session, we took the moto to the cliffs for sunset. The ocean breeze and evening warmth was grounding. His openness floored me ~ his willingness to help me and the generosity with which he gave his time. It wasn’t a transaction but pure kindness – someone seeing a need and offering their gifts with an open heart. I have witnessed this generosity of spirit over and over in Asia, it always brings me to my knees.
I must have thanked him half a dozen times. He would smile and say, ‘of course, you’ve helped me too’. This act of selflessness reminded what’s truly important in life. India knew what I needed and gave it freely, without hesitation. In return, though, I had to show up, stay open and become vulnerable to my fears and anxieties. I had to bring it all to the table and be willing to let some of it go. The only thing my guides, teachers and neighbor asked of me in return was to keep teaching yoga.
Discovering Varkala, India
Discovering Varkala, India slowly had a way of holding a mirror up to my life, showing me the parts I’d rather not see and asking me to sit with them anyway. It demanded my attention and presence, pulling me back into ‘the middle of right now’ whenever I wandered too far ahead. I asked why, she said why not; I said problem, she said no problem; I thought maybe, she said now.
This journey was to see where my grandfather is from, surf and practice yoga. I left with something greater ~ a deeper understanding of who I am and what I want to give attention to. A clearer sense of what matters and an appreciation for the spiritual undercurrent that runs through Sacred India.
It was as if my ancestors reached out and said ~ welcome, let us show you some things that make you, you. I saw my grandfather’s strength in the people’s eyes I passed, his hands in theirs as they brought me my drink, and his temperament in their mannerisms as they tended not to sweat the small stuff, instead solving it with an ambiguous head nod. It gave me greater pride in having South Indian blood in my veins. A deep reverence for the culture and its wisdom that now feels intertwined with my soul.
This place doesn’t just invite you to stay; it insists you return to yourself. Discovering Varkala, India ~ with its wild cliffs and luring tides, is a place that can offer you anything you are looking for. So get clear and get ready for the ride.
What the Hell Am I Doing?
Sometimes, I wake up in cities or countries, not knowing a soul, wondering what the hell am I doing there? Was I lucid when I made these travel plans? Not kidding, I’ve wondered this. The funny thing is the answers always come, and faster when I ask for guidance. You don’t always have to make the ‘right’ decision. That concept is BS anyway. You just have to make your decision right. This philosophy has helped me a lot while traveling. There is always something to learn.
I support you to go out into the world and make your travels your own. Follow those nudges, however wild or unplanned they are. There’s a reason the urges come, so act on the ones you can’t stop thinking about. In the words of Mary Oliver ~ pay attention, be astonished, tell about it.
xoxo, Bekah
PS ~ For more travel reflections, check out my article ‘The 7 Biggest Lessons I’ve Learned Living on the Road‘.
