Is Costa Rica Still Cool?

Is Costa Rica still cool? A very relevant question that has been simmering amongst the travel community. This week, we have a very special guest writer who is well informed to answer this question on a visceral level. Costa Rica for Bekah and I was a rite of passage in our early travel careers.

The year was 2009 and 6 of us packed into a rented Mitsubishi Montero. We were twentysomething and off to discover both coastlines of Costa Rica. Mind you this was in our era of cheap hostel stays, cheaper beer, no international cell phones and making new travel friends by the minute. We were guided by our noses, paper maps, recs from the street and of course Lonely Planet travel books. IYKYK, haha. Yes, actual printed books someone in the travel possy splurged on a few weeks before the trip. We of course traded off carrying the thick book during the trip in our oversized backpacker backpacks. We were très cool, 😉.

Costa Rica holds a mystical nostalgia in my soul, having only visited once 16 years ago and being my first Central American country. I was intrigued by the vast contrast of the ‘Ticos’ in Tamarindo to the rastas in Puerto Viejo. The Pacific and Caribbean coasts felt worlds apart and the curiosity that arose has influenced my travels. I can only imagine what has changed and how this trendy paradise has ebbed and flowed with expat influx and influence.

Our Guest Writer

Our guest writer this week to help us unpack – is Costa Rica still cool – is Liv Hooson! This angel (and professional writer) is the bestie of one of my dear friends. I have been jonesing to meet her for years. On a lovely balmy Saturday in CDMX, over a spritz-infused brunch the stars aligned. Not only was I drawn to her charisma and curiosity, I was intrigued by her career and ‘cool Covid story’. I am a sucker for the stories of what people did to get out of their comfort zones during Covid. There is much truth to what humans will do out of necessity, for protection or with the gift of ‘more time’. The concept of ‘more time’ may be an illusion, but I digress.

The Rich Coast

Costa Rica—’the Rich Coast’—is touted for its jaw-droppingly beautiful white and black sand beaches, spectacular wildlife (hello jaguars and three-toed sloths!), cloud forests, primary rainforests and its overall laid back energy. P-u-r-a  V-i-d-a. So with all this wonder, why do we ask – is Costa Rica still cool?

The country has experienced a surge in gentrification and rising prices that has resulted in both environmental and cultural destruction. Resorts now dominate the once pristine coastlines and contribute to deforestation and despite the presence of wildlife. There are more visitors to the country than ever before causing a strain on resources. Most people visit the Pacific coast, like Tamarindo and Santa Teresa report back with visions of long surf days, epic sunsets and over-priced smoothie bowls. But the cultural encounters leave much to be desired. 

In the Southern Caribbean of the country, similar issues persist but the region has shown me she is a completely different animal. 

Puerto Viejo

Driving down to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca from the capital of San José , you feel the weight of the humidity settle around you while the jungle becomes a thick, almost oppressive, tangle of energy. It is the year-round warm turquoise waters that welcome you wholly and make this 5-hour journey totally worth it.

Puerto Viejo beats to a rhythm all its own. A crowded main street is alive with vendors selling patis and fresh pipas, tuk-tuks kick up dust and semi trucks ramble without apology next to cyclists and scooters. There are boutique bikini shops and modern cafes that sit adjacent to elegant restaurants serving international cuisine with a few local sodas. 

The coast stretches south until the Panama border offering a range of beaches, a national wildlife refuge and dozens of eateries along the way. Visitors can spend their time taking surf lessons or paddle-boarding when the waters are flat. Kayak cruises will take you up rivers teeming with turtles and crocs. People love the diversity of restaurants, from Italian to Argentinian, while the mainstay of traditional casado consists of ‘gallo pinto’ or rice and beans. These plates are served with plantains, fried queso, eggs, and your choice of meat. After a long surf sesh at Playa Cocles, there is nothing sweeter. Visitors and locals often gather at Cocles for sunset. Here you can spot volleyball matches and slack-liners, families and friends picnic-ing, while surfers float across the beach break and reggaeton blasts from speakers. 

Tropical Paradise

For me, this was a tropical paradise in its purest form.

I came to Costa Rica for the second time in March of 2020, where I was doing a work-trade as a yoga teacher at Samasati Retreat high in the Talamanca Mountains overlooking Puerto Viejo. As fate would have it, Covid hit while I was there and I became ‘stranded in paradise’. Those early days of the pandemic were phantasmal—dreamlike—consisting of a great deal of uncertainty mixed with gratitude as my life unfolded in this charming, rustic town that I would end up calling home for 4 years.

Pandemic in Paradise 

During quarantine, there were only a handful of expats and nomads who decided to stay in town, so the locals became the main subject of a place that some might say had been taken over by outsiders. I spent mornings biking 9 miles from Playa Negra to Manzanillo, seeing less than 10 people along the way. It felt safe because the only people out of their homes were locals visiting their neighbors or collecting papayas and coconuts from the jungle. Connecting with local surfers and a few other foreigners would lead me to the local surf breaks where we would surf from 6-9am before the police would call us back to shore to follow the lock-down rules. I taught free yoga classes on a friends’ beachfront patio, started a garden and swam in the tranquil waters when the tides let up. 

Borders Began Opening

It was in 2021 when borders began opening up again. Much like Mexico, a surge of digital nomads came to town and I began to notice the distinctly Caribbean vibe of this place. Social gatherings revolved around rondón (run down)—a rich coconut and fish stew that originates from Jamaica is made from whatever is left over in the kitchen. The boys would build a fire on the beach while a group of us would slice cassava and carrots, season the raw pargo (red snapper) and prepare the fresh herbs, chilis, garlic and onion. The process took hours, from making the hand-made coconut milk to slowly stewing the veggies and fish over an open fire until the savory delicacy was ready to be devoured alongside friends, cervezas in hand. 

The fishermen at dusk would take their motor boats out to sea for the catch of the day or cast their broad nets from the shoreline. The waters were less polluted those days, offering an abundance of fish and clean sea water. People studied the sky and the open waters for first-hand weather reports, climbed building-high papaya trees to toss down the ripe fruit and sucked on raw sugar cane after salty surf sessions. 

I began asking about my friends’ heritages. Some are first generation Costa Ricans with parents from Germany, the United States, Nicaragua and Panama as well as Afro-Caribbeans whose families had been here since the first fisherman arrived in the 1700s and whose lineage traced back to South Africa. 

These roots were deep. There were stories planted here. 

Travel with Purpose 

So how did my travel with a purpose start? During my solo travels across parts of South America in my late 20s, I have learned to indulge in the mundane moments of the places I visit just as much as the tourist hot spots. Observing people on their way to work, preparing food in the open streets, children gathered for recess and vagabonds exchanging stories in the park. To understand a culture, you must first be an observer. The way people communicate, problem-solve, and do business can tell you a lot more about a place than the museums or the high-end restaurants. 

My attention turned towards the local faces who represented a multi-cultural mix of Afro-Caribbeans, Indigenous, Ticos, Latinos, Europeans, Americans and Canadians who all have found a place here. Unlike the (more touristy) pacific coast of Costa Rica, the Caribbean side has a history all its own that encompasses diversity and inclusivity. At Take It Easy Caribbean restaurant, Chris served up a blend of Costa Rican and African flavors that you can taste in every juicy bite of jerk chicken while women carried heavy baskets filled with warm ‘Johnny Cakes’. Families and neighbors could be seen gathering at Casa de la Cultura for workshops, dance classes and educational events to honor the blend of Caribbean and Indigenous cultures here. 

Post Pandemic Boom

During the post pandemic boom, new faces replaced familiar ones and even nature’s sounds became a backdrop to the cacophony of people and cars. It caused me to look closely at the people whose history was woven into this place. Those born from this tangle of jungle displayed both joy and resourcefulness in a way I had never seen. They are adaptable, both to the intense climate and land, as well as to the social and cultural changes they faced.

During this time I was pursuing my freelance writing career while also building community. I believe that conscious engagement is the next step of traveling with purpose. So, I renovated a local friend’s abandoned family home to become a pop-up yoga studio for a short season, taught classes at studios and in town for donation only. I went to dance events, hosted dinners and partied to reggae under open skies. But my most distinct moments were always with the people I encountered. 

Story-Telling as a Form of Preservation

The stories I was hearing began to make their way onto the page. The mission was becoming clear; story-telling as a form of preservation, showcasing this town that was now home. My ‘cool Covid story’ was beginning to bloom.

With the belief that documentation can serve as a form of preservation, I felt compelled to capture my time in a place that seemed to take on new forms as fast as the tides changed. And with technology contributing to our disconnection, I knew it had to be ‘off-line’. I saw in my mind a print publication revealing the faces and stories of the people of Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica. I saw portrait photography, long-form interviews, contemporary graphic design and ZERO ads in a legacy media format like never before. 

And it was at this moment that I knew I would need to channel that magical balance between vision and delusion. 

How Do You Interview the Locals?

So, how do you interview the locals? Those who have traveled to, lived in, or are from Caribbean locales understand that you can’t simply call someone up for a quick interview or a deep dive into their life story. It takes presence, eye contact and patience to build trust. I learned quickly that this work would become a part-time job in which I held hours of conversations with friends, business owners and artists to select the featured subjects and organize photo shoots that would elevate their stories. The creative and editorial process was a cross stitch of my work as a lifestyle writer for publications, my degree in art and passion for print content. 

Most of the subjects I chose had never been formally interviewed or photographed, but would show me their vulnerability in being captured and that is what kept me devoted to the project. I received the gift of working with a handful of talented photographers from around the world who donated their time to photographing the many moods of the subjects. From cracking coconuts beneath the heat of the sun with Tyrone Johnson to jungle glamour shoots with women we wove flower crowns for. I watched excitement flash across the eyes of young female fencers who posed in front of steep palms and spoke candidly about their personal journeys and the value of being on a team. 

‘I had received a lot of lessons and blessings from Puerto Viejo, but watching the multiplicity of people unfold before me was one of the best. Documentation boils down to the practice of listening blended with the responsibility of presenting what is shared with you, without the interruption of my biases or beliefs. This work led me to judge less and replace assumptions with questions.’

*Photo taken by, Flavia Villalba

The Publication

After another few months with my head down to write, edit, design and print 500 copies of the publication in Boulder, Colorado – ‘Qué Pasa Wolaba‘ launched in April 2024 as a grassroots project created from the collective participation of the community. Featuring both Spanish and English content, the magazine was made with accessibility in mind and recognizes our readership across borders. 

It is meant to be savored, not chased. Read more about the history of Puerto Viejo in the pages of Qué Pasa Wolaba!

Wolaba

Wolaba is used commonly in town, but it hasn’t always been adopted in a positive light because of the controversy of who the name belongs to. I thoughtfully chose to use it in the magazine title to honor the history here; allowing it to be a gateway to discover more about this town that is as complex as its name! Qué Pasa Wolaba translating to- What’s Happening Wolaba. 

So, is Costa Rica still cool? CR is pricy, gentrified in many ways and developing faster than the infrastructure can withstand. But it has initiated me through experiences and conversations to show me that a place is as cool as the space you give it to be heard. And Old Harbour, Wolaba, Puerto Viejo has a lot to say. 

Faces of Qué Pasa Wolaba

The faces of Qué Pasa Wolaba. Historically, the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica has had a complex relationship with the rest of the country with lack of funds and essential resources being allocated to the region. This is despite its exponential growth and touristic value.

Edwin Patterson shared his experiences as a congressman, activist, farmer and leader who believes in the independence of this region of the country as a way to build stronger and more culturally distinct communities. He is one of the most powerful people I have ever met with a  dedication to social impact that runs thick through his veins. 

The ‘Feminine Divine‘ story honors the beautiful Fressy Norman and Tirza Morales Sanchez who represent the rich history of the Indigenous Bribri and the Afro-Caribbeans of the region. Over hundreds of years, these groups have built relationships based on their knowledge of the land and vegetation that requires resourcefulness and collaboration to survive. *Photos below by, Flavia Villalba

Artistic Activism 

Hannah Dyson embodies artistic activism. She states, ‘Women are the doorways for future generations. Historically, the Bribri were a matriarchal tribe and were always wealthy due to cacao, a precious resource for centuries. They are proud of their organic gardens with 80% of the food served to tourists coming from their land.‘ She is one of our featured writers from Wales who documents her journey with the Stibrawpa people and how she uplifts the culture’s influential women preserving tradition in the jungle of Talamanca through story-telling.

Mickey Ryan is featured alongside his father to honor the generational stories of Puerto Viejo, then and now. Mickey’s passion for film-making and uplifting the voices of his community inspired him to make his internationally recognized documentary about the controversial case of the Keköldi centered on land rights and ownership in the Caribbean. 

Resilient Characters

More inspiring, resilient characters. Tyrone Johnson began selling pipas to travelers on the cruise ships in the nearby port city of Limón when he was young and has continued to pluck pipas from towering palm trees, delivering hundreds a day across the coastline to restaurants and homes. When he is not working, he is hosting events for the children of Puerto Viejo to gather, eat and play. A project that grew from losing his father at a young age and wanting to cultivate connection for those who might not have it at home. 

Meeting the Black Jaguar Fencing Club was an initiation into getting to know the youth of Puerto Viejo. A group of Gen Z’s, some with band tees and acrylic nails, who rocked Adidas shoes and fencing masks. I watched them snap and attack each other with agility and speed across the cracked concrete and below the weight of the humidity. They have proven their success with gold medals across the board despite having the least amount of resources for a team in the entire country. *Photos below by, Rey Castillo

Qué Pasa Wolaba Launch Party

After pouring my time, money and heart into this print project that I could actually hold with two hands and see it in others, the question arose: Did the subjects highlighted feel seen and celebrated through the writing and visuals of the project?

For the Qué Pasa Wolaba launch party, I invited dozens of community members and friends to celebrate the first ever magazine celebrating Wolaba. Over a steaming pot of rondón and craft cocktails, I had the privilege of introducing myself to new people, embracing with familiar ones and witnessing the publication being received for the first time.

José, the coach of the Black Jaguar Fencing Club, shared that when his mother read his article about the impact he had on the young athletes, she had tears in her eyes. His student, Anouk, expressed how excited she was to see the final result of the magazine that she had been so present for, from the sit-down interview to the photoshoot in the garden. She said seeing her and her team in print left her speechless. The cover girl, Fressy, looked at her poised reflection of beauty and confidence. ‘I needed to see myself like this, Liv, thank you for reminding me who I am.’

My Dharma Project

A yoga teacher who I studied under pointed out that this was my dharma project, this was my yoga practice off the mat and into the world. As I watched people thumb through pages, pointing to their featured friends’ faces and photographer’s seeing their artwork in editorial for the first time, I considered that the representation I was seeking to honor was looking back at me in this room full of faces.

Before the party started, I remember nervously chatting with the woman who was cleaning as I prepped food and hung posters across the event space. She kept her head down as she worked but carried on pleasant conversations with me in Spanish. As she was leaving, I asked her if she would be coming to the party. She said that she hadn’t been invited. ‘Well’ I said, ‘it’s my party and I would love to have you there. Please come and enjoy yourself.’

Representation is More Than Visibility

Later that night after I made my speech and hustled to make magazine sales. After the crowd blossomed from the bar and out to the breezy water’s edge, and after the music turned from reggaeton to classic salsa, I spotted the woman who had been cleaning. She walked in wearing a sleek black ensemble, looking like an entirely different person. With confidence, she walked over to the Caribbean woman who owned the property, took both her hands in hers and then they proceeded to dance in the middle of the dance floor with fast footwork and hips that wouldn’t quit! We all stopped what we were doing to cheer them on, hands clapping overhead as we gasped at their rhythm and power. I couldn’t imagine this woman not feeling welcomed into every place she stepped into.  

It was all I needed to remember that representation is more than visibility, it is about dignity and the right to be fully seen. That night, under the new moon in Puerto Viejo, this woman, the magazine subjects and the locals who were invested in this creative work were choosing to see and be seen. And it reminded me that I was more than an immigrant from the outside, I could be a medium for story-telling, a listener across borders. For the gift we give others is often the gift we need to receive ourselves.

~Liv Hooson

PS ~ Be sure to explore the digital magazine and check out the IG page @quepasawolaba.

PSS ~ To get the full digital download of Qué Pasa Wolaba, click here, and to recieve this beautiful magazine in print, email Liv at Qu***********@***il.com!