Silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda has always been high on our bucket list. Although high, it was one that felt far, far away. That was until we did more research this past summer and learned there are less than 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the world. Say what? They are spread out between 3 countries in Africa ~ Uganda, Rwanda and The Congo. This year has been all about saying yes and going for some of our bigger dreams. In that spirit we booked it! Since voyaging to Africa from California is a commitment, we decided to pair this trip with another one of our travel dreams, going on a safari in the Serengeti (article to come!).
Gorilla trekking offers a glimpse into the world of this endangered species and a chance to contribute to their conservation. Tourism plays a crucial role in funding the protection of their habitat and the ongoing efforts to ensure their survival for generations to come. So let’s talk about the logistics and how silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda is possible.
Why Uganda?
Why Uganda? Our research led us deciding between Rwanda and Uganda. Of the two, Rwanda is the more popular country to trek in. They have invested in tourism infrastructure, making it relatively easy for travelers to access the park, obtain permits, and engage in gorilla trekking. Due to this, it is also the more crowded place to trek. The pros for Uganda were that it’s home to about half of the mountain gorillas left. This makes the rainforest we trekked in as a critical sanctuary for the survival of these majestic creatures. It draws less people and the cost to trek is a little less expensive. For these reasons we chose Uganda.
Nestled in the southwestern region of this country is the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This rainforest’s name reflects the thick vegetation and challenging terrain, making it difficult for human access and exploration. That’s where your expert guides come into play, more on that soon.
Visas & Travel Insurance
There is a wonderful ‘East Africa’ visa that allows you entry into Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Since Rachel and I were meeting in Kenya before trekking, this visa made the most sense for us. For safari, we were headed to Tanzania which is a separate visa. We love using Sherpa for travel visas as their communication and services are top-notch. For travel insurance, we use World Nomads as their rates are very competitive. We also got our malaria medication from Runway Health, which was painless and did not require an in person visit.
Travel
There are some trips where Rach and I know we have to enlist the help of professionals. With gorilla trekking and a safari, we knew this trip to Africa was one of them. We LOVED the travel company we planned this trip with so much that we are partnering with them! Now we can help our friends and readers plan their dream trips and incorporate what we loved and what we would change. We are SO excited and for more details check out our travel booking site here or shoot us a message.
Entebbe
Leaving Nairobi, we landed at Entebbe International Airport in Uganda early afternoon so we could have time to explore. We spent the day walking around the Entebbe Botanical Gardens with a guide and our driver John. We saw birds, monkeys and countless types of lush tropical vegetation. These expansive gardens back up to Lake Victoria which is the second-largest lake in the world after Lake Superior. Its shores are shared by Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. We had sunset dinner waterside and then headed to our tropical garden lodge, The Boma. This was a great stay and a perfect introduction to the type of hospitality that was in store for us.
The next morning John took us to the airport where we flew from Entebbe to the Kihihi Airstrip in a small bush plane. These planes seat less than 20 people and do not have restrooms. When traveling in bush planes there are mandatory weight restrictions for luggage and you fly at low elevations. This makes for outstanding views and photos. We very strategically packed for our 2.5 weeks in Africa (one duffle bag and a backpack each), packlist coming soon!
Kihihi to Bwindi
Upon arriving we were greeted by our next driver, the charismatic Kasamba. He took us from Kihihi to the remote Bwindi Forest. Here we hopped in our first of many safari vehicles on this trip, a pimped out Toyota Land Cruiser. Rach and I are suckers for big and boxy 4×4 SUVs that can handle the elements, so we were in heaven! This was a two hour drive that started on paved roads. About 30 minutes in Kasamba said ‘are you ready for an African massage’ as he made a right turn down a dirt road. Awaiting us was 1.5 bumpy hours of driving past small Ugandan villages, waving to the kids and watching how families live. Many of the locals were dressed in their best and headed to gatherings as it was Christmas Eve. It was a really special to see this, it felt like a fashion show!
Buhoma Lodge
After the African massage, fashion show and history lessons with Kasamba, we arrived at Buhoma Lodge, our home for the next 2 days. Buhoma is a well-regarded eco-friendly resort nestled minutes from the Bwindi forest. Known for its breathtaking views and tastefully designed cottages, it is the perfect cozy retreat after a day or two in the forest.
Noah the manager, and his staff truly made us feel right at home. From fresh meals prepared with our dietary restrictions in mind to massages after trekking, to their boot cleaning service and a bedside sherry nightcap. They thought of everything, and candidly after a long day in the rainforest, we were saying yes to all the luxury offered! We can’t recommend this lodge enough.
Gorilla Trekking Day
We woke up on Christmas and it was the much anticipated gorilla trekking day! We had a light breakfast, put on our gators, threw our prepared lunches into our backpacks and headed to the base of the Bwindi National Park. All the trekkers for the day met here for a briefing and to be divided into groups. The staff then assigned us to a lead guide and a gorilla family that the early morning trackers had been following. Groups are no larger than 8 people and based on hiking skill level. We told the team we were in good shape and could manage a hearty climb.
It is important to mention this is not Disneyland nor a zoo, no staged gorillas are waiting for you. The specialized trackers find and follow the families who are roaming freely through the rugged terrain. You could spend a couple of hours hiking uphill to finally catch up with your assigned family.
Lead Guide, Trackers & the Hike
Your lead guide is an expert in the forest and they have spent years penetrating it. Our guide knew it like the back of his hand. He was in constant contact with the 3 trackers who had been scouting our family of 17, the Rusheguras since before dawn.
Our hike was 1 hour and 15 minutes uphill to the very top of Bwindi 😛. Bless those spin, yoga and HITT classes along with regular runs and hikes, I am not kidding! Finally, our lead guide got the call that we had caught up with the Rusheguras. We were greeted by the 3 trackers, and it was game time.
Machetes & The Gorillas
The trackers each have machetes in hand which makes this experience possible. At this time you leave the perfect hiking path and begin to follow them into incredibly thick shrubbery. They are actively chopping away bushes and bamboo trees at every turn. As we navigated the dense undergrowth and ascended the mist-covered slopes, the anticipation built. We turned a corner, and then literally life as we knew it changed forever.
We were staring at one of the most beautiful beings alive, watching him eat breakfast with joy. It was incredibly powerful to see this enormous jet black ape lying angelically in a bright green bush. He was grabbing branches and leaves just eating away without a care in the world. His beautiful eyes would stare up at us, then away as food was much more exciting. These gorillas are very used to humans so it is quite safe for us to be with them. The main direction is not to make sudden movements or loud noises. Also, the expert trackers know how to communicate with them through movement and sound, putting them at ease.
Jamba!
Our group had a good silent laugh as this first gorilla began to pass gas for what seemed to be 30 seconds. Even one of our trackers said, ‘wow, long one’. LOL. The word for passing gas in Swahili is ‘jamba’. That was a long jamba and gave new meaning to the American smoothie joint, Jamba Juice.
For the next hour, as the gorillas moved we moved, following the trackers as they cleared the way for us. We observed the mates swinging from branches, playing, squabbling a bit, breastfeeding, jamba-ing (lol) and babies being carried by their mommas. Then, we saw a silverback male gorilla. As safe as you are told you are, there are no words available to express the feeling of being a couple of feet from a humongous silverback. THE king of the jungle. Talk about one of the most humbling encounters where you are reminded of the majesty of nature, and whose hood you are in. Queue sweating in your boots my friends!
Nature in Ecstatic Motion
Observing their sentient eyes and witnessing their intricate social dynamics, time stands still, and the world narrows to the intimate connection forged in that sacred moment. At times we were 1 foot or closer to them. It’s a fleeting yet indescribable privilege, a brush with the untamed beauty of the natural world. You want to bottle it and take it with you. I have learned the best thing I can do in these most expansive moments is to be radically present. That is all we have the capacity to do while truly enjoying and soaking in each blessed moment.
Spending this hour with the gorillas was deeply impactful and had meaning beyond words. Some experiences change your soul and your relationship with life, this was one of them. Whenever I have these glimpses they are usually while experiencing nature in ecstatic motion. I always say to Rach after these milestones, ‘if my soul left my body tonight it would be ok’. I truly mean this as these are among the most divine moments of my life.
*Important to note, that each gorilla family only spends one hour max with tourists a day. This regulation is out of respect for the animals and so they do not get too stressed out by constant visitors (we can relate!).
Conservation & Goodbye to the Gorillas
Another beautiful thing about visiting these beauties is the conservation it provides. The money we spend on permits is used toward park management, conservation, research, medical care, monitoring, community development, infrastructure, staff and much more. So if silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda is interesting to you, do it as the gorillas need our support for their survival.
As I said goodbye to the gorillas and Bwindi, my heart was filled with such gratitude. The time spent in the almost untouched wild rainforest will be a lifetime memory. The intimate encounter with these gentle giants, witnessing their familial bonds and playful interactions, has left an unwavering mark on my soul. It’s a profound reminder of the delicate balance between humanity and the natural world. I am not only grateful for the privilege of sharing this time with the mountain gorillas but also for the conservation efforts that make such encounters possible. This adventure has instilled a deep appreciation for the fragility of our planet and the importance of preserving its treasures.
With all my appreciation to our lead guide, trackers and the Rushegura family,
Bekah
PS ~ If you want to know more about silverback gorilla trekking in Uganda and our safari, please check out this curated (and customizable) itinerary here. We loved our trip and know the tweaks we would make to create a similar adventure even more magical for you. And of course, we are always just an email away!
