This spring we were lucky enough to go snow chasing during a few large storms in Utah and Mammoth. I know some people want bluebird days and easy driving, but we crave a bit more adventure. We want snowy roads, fresh tracks and a big adrenaline rush. Luckily the Ikon Pass has made it easy to ski at different resorts around the world. Instead of buying a ticket for each day on the slopes, this pass covers you for the season at over 50 locations. Ikon offers 3 different tiers, making hitting the slopes a little more affordable.
This snow chasing road trip started in Los Angeles and the main stops were Salt Lake City, Utah and Mammoth, California. In between were open roads, tiny towns frozen in time, the odd casino and amazing views of nature. 10 days was the perfect amount of time to break up the 2,000 mile drive and soak it all in. We had a blast exploring snow season this way and we want to share our insights with you. On brand with The Rife Guide, you know we are going to talk about the delicious food and drinks we found along the way! Let’s get started.
Los Angeles to Las Vegas
As much as we wanted to make it further on day 1, LA traffic had other plans for us. Los Angeles to Las Vegas was as far as we got in 7.5 hours (this usually takes 5 hrs). We even took a break for snacks to let the traffic calm down, which didn’t make that much of a difference. When leaving the SoCal area on a Friday, it is best to do it before noon. If you get to Las Vegas at a decent hour there is plenty of fun to be had and this night can add sparkle to your trip. Here are some yummy restaurants in Las Vegas.
Eats in Las Vegas
• Matteo’s Ristorante Italiano – I ordered the fazzoletti, handkerchief pasta and I’ve been craving this dish ever since. Silky sheets of pasta with creamy pesto, yum! I don’t know why I don’t see this on more Italian menus.
• Mott 32 Las Vegas – we went to this gorgeous Chinese restaurant in Singapore and loved it. We hope their LV location serves you well. Mott 32 is one of the highest-rated Chinese restaurant chains in the world. We have not forgotten about their lion’s mane Kung Pao (YES vegans you can finally eat this dish), veg dim sum options and super creative cocktails. Don’t worry meat eaters, the Chinese classic Peking duck awaits you.
• Cathédrale Restaurant – the dark moody interior design and food are next level. Upscale French/Mediterranean fusion. Think caviar martini, grilled fish, apple tatin and baklava. Try and sit at the bar to watch the mixology show go down!
We know these eats in Las Vegas will leave you satiated for the long drive on day 2. As a reference, St. George, Utah was where we hoped to stay on night 1. The snow chasing must go on and the next morning we plowed on to SLC, Utah in 6 hours.
Salt Lake City
Lucky for Ikon Pass holders, there are 5 resorts in the greater Salt Lake City area to ski or snowboard. Within 30 minutes to 1 hour from SLC you can be making turns. We were there during a cold storm and the snow didn’t stick in the city, which made for easy driving once off the mountain passes.
*Pro tip ~ if you get really dialed in, you can take shuttles and buses from the city to the mountains and avoid driving to Utah or renting a car. A great way to utilize big city sensibility and save money for après, 😉. Many people have recommended this, however I have never mapped out the logistics. If you have please drop us a line and give us the dish!
I loved how some of the normal runs in Utah felt like backcountry if you choose the road less traveled. The gates insinuating ‘not for beginners’ were open and there were warning signs reminding you that you are at your own risk. Think tiny cat tracks scaling the top of cliffs that may or may not have enough snow, and dropping into the unknown with unlimited tree lines. Please only do this if you know you have the skillset, it is not for everyone. Compared to the cautious California resorts that I am used to, this was a real surprise and the adrenaline rush I was looking for. Something important to note is that 2 of the Utah resorts on the Ikon Pass are ski only. You are not going to want to show up to these slopes with your board in hand. Here is the breakdown:
Utah Resorts
• Snowbird – ski and snowboard friendly. The largest of the Utah resorts on the pass. Enjoy their state-of-the-art tram and 600 ft long Peruvian tunnel with a motorized ‘magic carpet’ to get you to their epic backside. They have the highest elevation of these 5 Utah resorts and for that, they are known for the best snow in the area.
• Solitude/Brighton – ski and snowboard friendly. Smaller mountains, but don’t let that fool you. They have challenging terrain and can be great alternatives to crowded weekends at Snowbird.
• Deer Valley/Alta – ski only. I can’t chirp in here since I am not allowed, 😭. Deer Valley is a popular resort as it’s in the uber-trendy Park City. This is the town Sundance Film Festival takes place in. Even if you are not going to Park City to ski, a trip here is well worth your time to tour the adorable western town. PC is a 45-minute drive from Salt Lake City.
SLC Food Scene
We were pleasantly surprised with the SLC food scene. We went out to dinner early in the week and couldn’t believe how packed and lively the places were. The service was spot on and the buzz about SLC growing and thriving seemed true. After a few food wins we started asking our enthusiastic servers about where they dine and their recommendations were perfect. Here is the breakdown.
Eats in SLC
• Monarca – their ceviche served a citrus punch and the vegan quesadilla stuffed with purple corn was delightful. The mezcal mule was a crowd pleaser.
• ROCTACO – this is your down home Anthony Bourdain style, no fuss taco joint. Enjoy a la carte options and Indian, Vietnamese and Labanese inspired tacos. They went there and we think you are going to like it!
• Takashi – we don’t know where their seafood is coming from but it’s fresh and worth your time! Try to get a rez as this place fills up as soon as they open. Enjoy traditional maki, sashimi, balanced specialty rolls and best of all, a long Japanese whiskey menu. Our fave.
Drinks in SLC
• Back Door SLC – next up, drinks in SLC! The perfect evening downtown is eating at Monarca and then walking to Back Door for a nightcap. The vibe is dim speakeasy parked on a quirky back alley street. The drinks were meticulously crafted and even the traditional choices had a mysterious twist. Try the mezcal ‘Naked and Famous’ made with somewhat hard to find herbal Chartreuse.
• Bar X – a legit bar serving $10-12 cocktails, sign us up! This historic place delivers with great staff, music and a moody ambiance.
• Water Witch – that name alone will get me in the door. This is one of those bars that pushes the edge with ingredients. Think yogurt, peanut butter and aquavit. Congrats on the James Beard Award nomination in 2022!
Salt Lake City to Mammoth
The drive from Salt Lake City to Mammoth might seem like the boring leg of the trip, but it stands out the most in my memory. Here you get to enjoy empty tow-lane highways and vast nature all around. A gas station pops up right when you need it and the obscure structures in the distance once you hit Nevada make you wonder. We were curious so we started googling and realized we were right by Area 51! Area 51 is a highly classified United States Air Force facility known for its secrecy and rumored association with extraterrestrial technology. With the nuclear tests that have been conducted in this area maybe it is best that the towns seemed abandoned, 👽.
Tonopah
Reaching Tonopah is your marker that the 8+ hour drive is on a downward slope. This old western mining town is a relic preserved in time. Tonopah was founded in 1900 following the discovery of silver ore in the area by prospector Jim Butler. Enjoy a historic tour of the mines, smoke filled casino, old creaky dive bars and of course the famous haunted Mizpah Hotel. Reader Nevada states, ‘The friendly ghosts at the hotel have been present throughout the years and delight in interacting with our guests! The Mizpah Hotel was voted the #1 Haunted Hotel by USA Today 10 Best Reader’s Choice Awards.’ Don’t you just love stories like this?
Mammoth
Mammoth is a small but lively mountain town weighing in at 4 square miles. If you stay by the village or one of the 3 lodges (Canyon, Main or Eagle) you can easily walk to the ski lifts or village gondola. Buses also efficiently swirl around town and take people up to the mountain. As the parking lots get really full it is nice to avoid them if possible. All the accommodation sites jack rates when the storms are coming, if you are a storm chaser expect higher prices. If you can plan a few weeks in advance, the prices are more reasonable. Mammothreservations.com offers 15% off to Ikon pass holders and return guests. As far as riding at Mammoth, weather patterns, terrain and wind can change a lot in a day. The summit is all black and double black diamonds, plan accordingly and stay with a buddy!
Even though many people from LA visit Mammoth, the vibe has managed to stay down-to-earth and this is what keeps us coming back. The food scene is burgeoning, however the après and coffee joints are dialed in. These are the best of.
Après
• Canyon Lodge – they throw iconic Saturday parties right at the bottom of the slopes with groovy DJs and all ages co-mingling. Costumes and mountain chic wear are welcome!
• Austria Hof Lodge – enjoy a classic après moment just steps away from Canyon Lodge. We love their mulled wine and decadent pretzel. You can stay at this no-frills lodge, allowing you the comfort of being walking distance to the lifts. Their restaurant is one of your better dinner options in Mammoth.
• Clocktower Cellar – where you go in the village to turn it up and stay awhile. This is a proper dive bar with happy hour, lots of whiskey, no windows, foosball, etc. You get it!
• The Yodler Restaurant & Bar – if your après leads you to the Main Lodge area, this is your spot! Classic chalet-style bar with Bavarian staples. If you love schnitzel and stroganoff, this is your place.
Coffee / Take Away
• Stellar Brew & Natural Cafe – we love the local feel, coffee, smoothies and takeaway section supplying vegan breakfast burritos. They are open till 6p so grab something yummy for the drive home.
• Looney Bean – a great little oasis to have a work remote day if you need a break from the mountain.
• Mammoth Coffee Roasting, Co. – friendly service and tons of sweet treats to choose from.
• Elixir Superfood & Juice – my favorite fast casual place in Mammoth to get a healthy bowl before the drive home. They pride themselves on quality of ingredients, don’t miss their homemade falafels!
• Shea Schat’s Bakery – famous family bakery whipping up fresh croissants, bear claws, cakes, cookies, fresh juice and deli sandwiches. This is the spot if you want to make a bday or special event memorable.
Dinner
• Petra’s Bistro & Wine Bar – the big standout here is their incredible wine list, cozy fireplace, happy hour bites and chilly martinis. They are closing their doors spring 2024, but look out for the new creation the owners have in store!
• Mammoth Tavern – don’t let the word tavern in their name scare you, this is some of the best food and craftiest cocktails in town. A huge perk is their second-story which allows for mountain views while dining. A fun place to share oysters and fondue with friends!
• Gomez’s Mexican Restaurant – spoiler alert, you are going to pay village prices here. Their massive mezcal and tequila selection and handful of veg taco options make this a repeat place for me.
• Shelter Distilling – very laid-back joint with impressive fresh food catering to all dietary needs. Salads, pizza, tacos, dips and veg dishes, it is all here. Order from the QR code on your table and specialty cocktails and plates will start flooding in with efficiency. This style of service just works here and if the whole town is booked this is a great dinner option.
Pray for Powder
We hope this snow chasing travel guide excites you to explore Utah and Mammoth while going down a foodie rabbit hole. Salt Lake City offers easy access to five ski resorts, where endless adventures awaits and the food scene pleasantly surprises. In Mammoth, the unpretentious atmosphere, challenging terrain, perfect après joints + up and coming food scene will have you planning a return. The additions of Las Vegas, deserted Nevada highways and Tonopah add the mystery all road trips need. Don’t forget to look up some hot springs in both mountain towns for the perfect reset after the slopes.
It is our passion to help you explore the unknown and stay active and well fed while doing it. Please let us know if you have any questions and drop us a line about where your snow peaked voyages take you!
Pray for powder,
Rach
PS ~ To get a head start on another road trip idea, check out our SF & Napa winery trip here!
