An otherworldly 3-day motorcycle loop through the Jotunheimen Mountains of Norway. Packed with epic hikes, stave churches, alpine cabins, local delicacies, hearty meals, and views that ignite your soul.
I was staying at a friend’s peaceful farmhouse in Nes i Ådal, a lush pocket of the countryside northwest of Oslo, when we decided to plan a rugged nature escape. The rules were simple: it had to be something adventurous, scenic, and a destination he (as a local) had never done before.
We landed on a 3-day motorbike trip through the legendary alpine playground in the mountain region of Jotunheimen. On day two, we’d hike the iconic Kyrkja Trail inside Jotunheimen National Park. Before and after, though, the ride itself was something unforgettable.
A Land of Giants & Norse Legends
Jotunheimen, meaning Home of the Giants, has long been steeped in myth and majesty. Vikings once believed this rugged range was home to the Jötnar ~ towering beings who rivaled the gods. Today, it’s where Norway’s tallest peaks rise into the clouds, glaciers spill over granite, and valleys stretch wider than your lens can capture.
The Route, Hike & Highlights
Here’s the route we took along with must-see stops, hidden gems, and suggestions for extra adventuring if you’ve time allows.
1. Aurdal
Leaving Nes and heading northwest towards Aurdal, you’ll start seeing charming roadside stops: bakeries, farm shops, and local artisans selling smoked fish, jams, and other road trip provisions. Stock up, as eating these local delights is what it is all about, and these shops hold a Nordic charm you have to experience.
Don’t Miss ~ The skolebrød at Bakeriet, a fluffy cardamom bun filled with vanilla custard and topped with icing and coconut. It’s a Norwegian classic, and yes, it lives up to the hype. Try the cinnamon bun too 😉.
2. Beitostølen
This buzzing mountain town is your gateway to the Jotunheimen Mountains of Norway. Revived in the ’60s by ski pioneer Steinar Hovi, Beitostølen is now a year-round base for hiking, biking, skiing, and everything in between.
Gear Up & Refuel ~ Hit Sporten Beitostølen for any last-minute outdoor gear and Caféen Beitostølen for strong coffee, snacks or lunch. This restaurant delivers on cozy mountain apres ski vibes, get into it!
3. Valdresflye Scenic Route
From Beitostølen, the road unspools into the Valdresflye Scenic Route, a mountain highway of cinematic beauty. Stretching nearly 1,400 meters above sea level, this pass offers surreal views of still lakes and jagged peaks that seem plucked from Norse sagas.
If you’ve ever paused mid-scroll on a reel showing a motorcycle winding through wide-open alpine tundra under moody skies, this is likely the place. It’s not just a drive, it’s a front-row seat to some of Norway’s most hauntingly beautiful terrain.
4. Lom
Lom is where east meets west, adventure intersects convenience, and local shopes offer fresh-baked goods and French fries. Towered over by Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind — the two tallest mountains in Northern Europe, this lively village is your launchpad into Norway’s most legendary landscape. Whether you’re passing through or planning to stay, Lom offers cafés, restaurants, gear shops, cozy cabins, and a gas station right in the heart of it all. It’s the perfect place to take advantage of the offerings before diving deeper into the Jotunheimen wilds.
Adrenaline fix? Try Via Ferrata Lom, a thrilling cliffside climb with cables, iron steps and unreal views.
5. Leirvassbu Tourist Cabin
Tucked deeper into the Jotunheimen Mountains of Norway, you will arrive at Leirvassbu Tourist Cabin. It feels like a secret passed between travelers as it’s the only guesthouse for miles, cradled by peaks and silence. More than just a place to sleep, it’s part of Norway’s brilliant DNT tourist cabin network (something to look into if you’re spending extended time in Norway!), a system built on the belief that nature should be welcoming, not walled off. These cabins make wild places feel within reach, and Leirvassbu might just be the crown jewel.
Here, you’ll find simple rooms, a warm dining hall, a welcoming bar, and communal lounge areas that soften the ruggedness outside. Evenings are best spent gathered over their three-course dinners. Enjoy homemade bread and soup, a mountainy main course, and a dessert that somehow tastes even better after a long day on the trail.
In the morning, enjoy breakfast & pack your own nistepakke — a slice of Norwegian culture wrapped in wax paper: bread, crackers, cheese, meats, nuts, and dried fruit, tucked away for the hike ahead. It’s humble, practical and a nod to Norwegian tradition.
Pro tip ~ You can also tent camp on-site and cook your own meals, but if your budget allows, opt for the dinners. They’re more than just a meal — they’re a warm, shared mountain experience you’ll remember long after you’ve left the peaks.
6. Kyrkja Hike
Allow yourself a solid 5–6 hours for the Kyrkja hike, and pack as if the weather will turn on you, because it just might. Layers, gloves, beanies, and wool sweaters are your best friends on this trail. Kyrkja, meaning The Church, is no gentle stroll. It’s a full-on mountain ascent that unfolds in stages: well-trodden paths give way to open valleys, then lingering snowfields, and finally a steep, rocky scramble that will leave your legs burning. This trek isn’t a loop. It’s a steep, up-and-down climb.
We hiked in mid-August, and though we hoped for clear skies, the summit was cloaked in thick, moody fog. No sweeping vistas, no postcard view. But somehow, that made it even more powerful. Standing atop that sharp, craggy peak with mist dripping from our hair felt like touching something still and sacred. Kyrkja earns its name in both shape and reverence, it’s a climb that humbles you.
Pro Tip ~ On rocky sections, the path vanishes completely. Keep your eyes on the stacked rocks (varder), they’re your lifeline to the summit and back again.
7. Sognefjellet Pass
On the way home, rather than retrace our route, we crossed the legendary Sognefjellet Pass, the highest mountain road in Northern Europe, turning the moto trip into an epic loop. The air thinned, the temperature dropped, and suddenly we were riding through a world of glaciers, jagged ridgelines, and sky-high ravines that felt like another planet. It’s the kind of road that makes you pull over just to stare, yet again blown away by nature itself.
Don’t Miss ~ Sognefjellet Lodge, a cozy timber retreat perched right at the top. Grab a hot coffee + sweet treat, warm up by the panoramic windows, and watch clouds roll over the glacier-capped peaks. Bonus ~ There’s often a rotating art gallery downstairs, featuring local artists’ takes on capturing the dramatic beauty of their homeland.
8. Øye & the King’s Road
Set in the culturally rich Valdres region, Øye is a living postcard. Waterfalls, cow-dotted pastures, rushing rivers, and one of Norway’s oldest stave churches, dating back to the 1100s. Built with Viking-era craftsmanship, the church remains a testament to the timeless skills of Norse builders today.
Just beyond the village, you’ll find the King’s Road (Kongevegen)— a centuries-old pilgrimage route that once connected Oslo and Bergen. It was the first carriage road allowing horse and cart travel between those two pivotal regions, completed in the 1790s.
Pro Tip ~ Piece together your own stave church tour across the region, as many more are still standing.
9. Fagernes
The unofficial capital of Valdres and a great final stop. A town known for its smoked fish, sausages, trout fishing, and the legendary Norsk Rakfiskfestival (a sour-fish celebration that draws 20,000 visitors every November). I can’t say this festival is on my list 🤪.
Last Call ~ Don’t leave without swinging by Fagernes Landhandel for ice cream, coffee, artisanal cheeses, tinned fish, and your final foodie stockup.
Leaving the Jotunheimen Mountains of Norway
The magic of this adventure isn’t just in the famous hikes and scenic routes. It’s in the tiny towns, gravel roads, and unexpected turnoffs you discover along the way. Don’t rush. If a sign points to a lake, trail, or quaint café, follow it. These villages feel preserved in time, with quiet roads, weathered barns, and the kind of peace you didn’t know you were missing.
What I loved most about exploring Norway was how the country doesn’t mess with nature, it elevates it by stepping out of the way. It’s like the entire country is designed for the intuitive traveler. There are no billboards, blinking lights, or Don’t Miss This, Last Exit Ahead signs. Trails aren’t over-marked. Architecture blends seamlessly into the landscape, never stealing the spotlight from the fjords, forests, or peaks. Even rest stops seem to have organically grown right out of the land.
We never once paid to enter a national park. Nature is for everyone in Norway. Whether you’re splurging or on a shoestring, you’ll be blown away. Your jaw will drop, your camera won’t live up to the challenge, and your spirit will feel more refreshed than ever.
Vi ses, Jotunheimen. Until next time. 👋
xo, Bekah
PS ~ While in the hood, don’t miss our guide to the ultimate weekend in Oslo!
